Heffalumps
22-02-2010
When Pete and I first began to plan this trip we each had our own expectations, Pete’s “must do” highlight was to be the Karakoram Highway and mine was to see wild elephants, in the wild, doing what ever it is wild elephants do. Pete realised his dream back in October, of which I only did half due to a head on collision, and I got my wish aboard a jeep 
on the edge of a jungle, accompanied by Auntie Mary (safari pro.) Pete unfortunately could not experience this spectacle due to my bike having yet another failure, this time the rear brake hose, and so he was once more up to his elbows in grease trying to bodge a repair. 
The day started at 05:15hrs up a mountain surrounded by cold mist, a cuppa with the other jeep guides later and we set off on the bumpiest road in the least suspended vehicle imaginable. Q uite how they thought we could see timid creatures in dark dense forest I don’t know but nevertheless we carried on regardless in a pack of roaring diesel engines carrying a hoard of expectant tourists tricking the wildlife into thinking they were safe in exposing themselves. For our £25 we got lots of black monkeys and a giant squirrel,
beautiful jungle and views, (when the sun came up) buffet style breakfast along with all the other paying fools and a jungle trek to see crickets and a special tree that leaks water??!! Lunch came next back at the canteen and after, we were promised boating, ok, I can row, punt, pedalo, whatever, but I am not getting into a fluorescent orange life jacket same as half a dozen others and being rowed by a guide once round a small lake behind 10 other boats as if on an theme park water ride, oh no, not for anyone, home time please! Mary and I
on the edge of a jungle, accompanied by Auntie Mary (safari pro.) Pete unfortunately could not experience this spectacle due to my bike having yet another failure, this time the rear brake hose, and so he was once more up to his elbows in grease trying to bodge a repair. The day started at 05:15hrs up a mountain surrounded by cold mist, a cuppa with the other jeep guides later and we set off on the bumpiest road in the least suspended vehicle imaginable. Q uite how they thought we could see timid creatures in dark dense forest I don’t know but nevertheless we carried on regardless in a pack of roaring diesel engines carrying a hoard of expectant tourists tricking the wildlife into thinking they were safe in exposing themselves. For our £25 we got lots of black monkeys and a giant squirrel, beautiful jungle and views, (when the sun came up) buffet style breakfast along with all the other paying fools and a jungle trek to see crickets and a special tree that leaks water??!! Lunch came next back at the canteen and after, we were promised boating, ok, I can row, punt, pedalo, whatever, but I am not getting into a fluorescent orange life jacket same as half a dozen others and being rowed by a guide once round a small lake behind 10 other boats as if on an theme park water ride, oh no, not for anyone, home time please! Mary and I wandered round the exotic gardens 
instead spotting giant butterflies and tiny sunbirds. Our jeep driver tried to convince us to stay for another 2hrs as the animals apparently come out when it gets cooler but we assured him and the feedback quizmaster that we’d had a wonderful time and needed beer. During the journey back we encountered greater numbers of animals, closer up and more relaxed than in the morning, probably due to the lack of other vehicles, people and noise. Nearing the edge of the reserve I had given up on any hope of seeing my one true prize and was content with the diversity of wildlife encountered as we had escaped the jeep procession and thinking there would be many more opportunities for pachyderm spotting at other wildlife reserves. For most of the return drive I was stood up in the back of the jeep clinging onto the rails and looking out for maniac auto-rickshaws coming the other way and, obviously, critters. We rounded a bend in a quite open area of land and I almost went flying over the bars with Mary nearly going through the windscreen, and there, in front of us, nonchalantly crossing the road, were 4 elephants, 3 adults and a baby! I took a huge deep breath and had to sit down
then our guide was screaming at us to stand and take pictures so I pulled myself together and trying not to blub, snapped away. They hung around for a while tearing bails of grass from the ground when other jeeps started turning up pulling the same crazy maneouvre our driver had just performed, no one was hurt though and much excitement was to be had, our guide not seeing any flumps for 3 months, we were very, very lucky.
instead spotting giant butterflies and tiny sunbirds. Our jeep driver tried to convince us to stay for another 2hrs as the animals apparently come out when it gets cooler but we assured him and the feedback quizmaster that we’d had a wonderful time and needed beer. During the journey back we encountered greater numbers of animals, closer up and more relaxed than in the morning, probably due to the lack of other vehicles, people and noise. Nearing the edge of the reserve I had given up on any hope of seeing my one true prize and was content with the diversity of wildlife encountered as we had escaped the jeep procession and thinking there would be many more opportunities for pachyderm spotting at other wildlife reserves. For most of the return drive I was stood up in the back of the jeep clinging onto the rails and looking out for maniac auto-rickshaws coming the other way and, obviously, critters. We rounded a bend in a quite open area of land and I almost went flying over the bars with Mary nearly going through the windscreen, and there, in front of us, nonchalantly crossing the road, were 4 elephants, 3 adults and a baby! I took a huge deep breath and had to sit down then our guide was screaming at us to stand and take pictures so I pulled myself together and trying not to blub, snapped away. They hung around for a while tearing bails of grass from the ground when other jeeps started turning up pulling the same crazy maneouvre our driver had just performed, no one was hurt though and much excitement was to be had, our guide not seeing any flumps for 3 months, we were very, very lucky.
The route we took in Iran caused us to come across a great deal of building works and the remains of a distinct lack of it. The war between Iran and Iraq had certainly left it's mark along the Persian Gulf, but the people we met seem to be moving on and taking advantage of the economic success the country is experiencing at present (in some cities by charging us rates we would have expected in a reasonable hotel in central London.)
Bit of a disappointment really, UNESCO had got their hands on it 
These images are better than reality 
but we had a good picnic 
with a nice view
Landslip on the Black Sea Coastal Highway 
Feels like we're on a 2 week holiday still